Assam Laksa: Penang's Sour Fish Noodle Soup

Assam laksa is a bowl of thick rice noodles in a tangy, fish-based soup flavored with tamarind, lemongrass, chili and a handful of herbs, topped with shredded fresh vegetables, mint, pineapple and a dark spoonful of shrimp paste. The base is made from mackerel simmered and flaked into the broth, which gives it a slightly fishy, deeply savory flavor balanced by a sharp sourness. It is unlike any other noodle soup and is often the dish visitors remember most from Penang.

The soup is the signature laksa of the island and is quite different from the coconut-milk curry laksa found elsewhere in Malaysia and Singapore. The word assam refers to the tamarind that gives the broth its sourness, and the toppings add layers of freshness. International food lists have often placed it among the best dishes in the world, though locals simply eat it as an affordable everyday lunch.

The market area at Air Itam, near Kek Lok Si Temple, is one of the most famous places to try it, with stalls that have served it for decades. George Town's hawker centers and coffee shops, including those on Penang Road and Gurney Drive, also have good versions. A bowl typically costs just a few ringgit, and a small second bowl is not unusual.