Nasi Kandar: Penang's Rice With Everything
How nasi kandar works, how to order from the counter of curries, and where to find the best plates in George Town, from old-school favorites to 24-hour shops.
Nasi Kandar: A Plate of Rice and Curry Done the Penang Way
Nasi kandar is steamed rice served with a choice of curries, meats, vegetables and fried items, with the gravy ladled over everything in a generous mix. The dish originated with Indian Muslim traders in Penang, who carried pots of rice and curries on a pole, or kandar, across their shoulders and sold them in the street. Today it is served in open-fronted restaurants where a counter of dishes is arranged for customers to choose from, and it is one of Penang's most beloved meals.
The typical offer includes fried chicken, beef or mutton curries, fish, squid, eggs, okra and other vegetables. Once you have chosen, the server pours a mixture of curry gravies over the rice, a practice known as banjir, or flooding, which blends the sauces into a rich, spicy, slightly sweet combination. The result is messy, filling and extremely flavorful, and a plate is typically very good value.
How to Order Nasi Kandar
| Step | What to Do |
|---|---|
| 1 | Take a plate of rice and point to the dishes you want from the counter |
| 2 | Choose your gravy level, from a light splash to a full flood, if you are sensitive to spice |
| 3 | Add vegetables or a boiled egg to balance the richness |
| 4 | Pay at the counter by weight or at the end, depending on the restaurant |
Where to Try Them
Several nasi kandar restaurants in George Town are legendary and often open very late or all night, with crowds at lunch and after midnight. They are usually busy, open-fronted and no-frills, with long communal tables. Prices vary by what you choose, but a full plate usually costs a few ringgit, which makes it one of the cheapest satisfying meals in the city.
Start with modest portions of two or three curries and go back for more if you want. It is easy to over-order at the counter, and the combined gravies are richer than they look.
