Soho: London's Restaurants, Theatres, Jazz and Late-Night Streets
Explore Soho's narrow streets of restaurants, theatres, jazz clubs, record shops and Chinatown, from Old Compton Street to Berwick Street Market and Carnaby Street.
Soho is the part of London that never fully switches off. Packed into a small area of narrow streets between Oxford Street, Regent Street, Shaftesbury Avenue and Charing Cross Road, it is the city's entertainment district, with theatres, jazz clubs, restaurants, cocktail bars, independent shops and a lively street life that runs from breakfast to the early hours. It has long had a reputation for bohemian and sometimes seedy nightlife, and while it is now much more polished, it still feels a little rebellious, a place where different worlds rub shoulders.
Soho has been a place of immigration and creativity for centuries. In the 17th and 18th centuries it became home to French Huguenots, Greeks, Italians and Chinese communities, and by the 19th century it was known for its restaurants and cafes. Karl Marx lived on Dean Street, and in the 20th century the area became the heart of London's music, film and publishing industries, as well as its jazz scene and its LGBTQ+ community. That history is visible in the street names, the old pubs and the surprising mix of businesses side by side.
Old Compton Street is the main artery, a lively street lined with cafes, bars and restaurants, and it is the centre of London's LGBTQ+ nightlife, with a friendly, inclusive atmosphere. Running parallel, Dean Street, Frith Street and Greek Street are full of restaurants and small theatres. Bar Italia, on Frith Street, has been serving coffee since 1949 and is open until the small hours, a classic place to stop after a night out. Ronnie Scott's, also on Frith Street, is one of the most famous jazz clubs in the world and has hosted legends since 1959.
Chinatown, at the southern edge of Soho around Gerrard Street, is a pedestrianized quarter of Chinese restaurants, bakeries, supermarkets and shops, marked by ornate gates and red lanterns. It is a good place for dim sum, roast duck, noodles and bubble tea, and the atmosphere is liveliest around Chinese New Year, when the streets fill with parades, lion dances and street food. For a cheaper meal, look for the small restaurants on the side streets rather than the main thoroughfare, where prices can be higher.
| Street | What to Expect |
|---|---|
| Old Compton Street | Cafes, bars, restaurants and the centre of LGBTQ+ nightlife |
| Berwick Street | Daily street market and independent record and fabric shops |
| Carnaby Street | Independent fashion shops, pop-ups and a long history in 1960s style |
| Gerrard Street | The heart of Chinatown, with Chinese restaurants and bakeries |
Soho is served by Piccadilly Circus (Piccadilly and Bakerloo lines), Leicester Square (Northern and Piccadilly), Tottenham Court Road (Central, Northern and the Elizabeth line) and Oxford Circus (Central, Victoria and Bakerloo). It is easy to walk to from Covent Garden, Trafalgar Square and Oxford Street.
Berwick Street Market is one of the oldest street markets in London, selling fruit, vegetables and street food from stalls, and the surrounding street is lined with independent record shops that have kept London's music-collecting tradition alive. Carnaby Street, a few minutes away, rose to fame in the 1960s as the home of mod and swinging London style, and while it is now more commercial, it still has independent boutiques and pop-up stores among the chains. The side streets between them are full of small galleries and design shops.
Soho is also one of the best places in London for food. You can eat almost anything: Italian trattorias, Japanese ramen and izakaya, Vietnamese pho, Indian small plates, French bistros and modern British restaurants all sit within a few blocks. Reservations are wise for dinner at popular places, although many offer walk-in counter seating. For something cheaper, street food from Berwick Street and the lunchtime stalls on Rupert Street offer good value. Our guide to <a href="/guide/fish-and-chips-london-guide/">fish and chips</a> and the <a href="/guide/sunday-roast-london-guide/">Sunday roast</a> covers the classic British dishes.
Soho Square, a small garden square at the northern end of the area, is a pleasant place to sit on a sunny day, with benches, a central pavilion and office workers eating lunch. The nearby Shaftesbury Avenue is the heart of the West End theatre district, with the Palace, Lyric and Apollo theatres within a short walk of each other, and the Soho Theatre on Dean Street shows comedy and new writing. For a late-night show, look for stand-up comedy venues, which operate in many basement rooms.
A few practical tips help. Soho is busiest on Friday and Saturday nights, when the streets are packed and queues for bars and restaurants build, so book ahead or arrive early. Prices are higher than in other parts of London, and many places add a service charge, so check the bill. Keep an eye on your belongings in crowded bars and on the street, and use licensed taxis or ride-hailing apps late at night. During the day, the area is calmer, and many shops and cafes are open from about ten.
Soho suits nightlife lovers, theatre fans, food lovers and anyone who enjoys busy, characterful streets. It is less suited to travelers who want quiet, green spaces or a calm evening, since the area is busy and noisy well into the night. It also makes a convenient base for the West End, with Tube stations and the major sights of central London a short walk away. For where to stay nearby, see our guide to the <a href="/guide/top-10-hotels-in-london/">top 10 hotels in London</a>.
For more of the city, see our guides to the Tower of London, the British Museum and Buckingham Palace, and our food guides to fish and chips, the Sunday roast and afternoon tea. For budgeting, see London on $90 a day, and for lodging, see our top 10 hotels in London and budget hotels in London.
