Bacalhau: Portugal's Beloved Salted Cod in Lisbon
A guide to bacalhau in Lisbon, from why Portugal loves salted cod to the classic dishes, how to order them and where to find a great version.
Bacalhau: Portugal's National Obsession
Bacalhau, or salted dried cod, is the national dish of Portugal in all but name. It is said that there are 365 ways to cook it, one for every day of the year, and the fish appears on menus from humble tascas to elegant restaurants. Portuguese fishermen began catching cod off Newfoundland in the 15th century, and drying and salting preserved it for long voyages and for eating at home, where it became an essential part of the diet, especially at Christmas. The cod is soaked in water for a day or two before cooking, which restores its texture and removes the salt.
The classics are worth knowing. Bacalhau à Brás is the most popular dish in Lisbon: shredded cod scrambled with thin fried potatoes, onions and eggs, and topped with black olives and parsley. Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is a baked casserole of cod, potatoes, onions and hard-boiled eggs, originally from Porto. Bacalhau com natas is baked with cream and potatoes, and pastéis de bacalhau, or cod fritters, are a popular snack. Bacalhau assado, grilled with olive oil and garlic, is simple and delicious.
How to Order Bacalhau
| Dish | What It Is |
|---|---|
| Bacalhau à Brás | Shredded cod with eggs, fried potatoes, onions and olives |
| Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá | Baked cod with potatoes, onions, hard-boiled eggs and olives |
| Bacalhau com Natas | Cod baked with cream, potatoes and onions |
| Pastéis de Bacalhau | Crisp fried cod fritters, a classic snack or starter |
Where to Try Bacalhau in Lisbon
Traditional tascas, small family-run taverns, are the best places, and you will find many in Alfama, Mouraria and Bairro Alto. Look for a menu with a handful of daily dishes and a handwritten blackboard, where bacalhau is often the plato do dia, costing about €9 to €14. Specialist restaurants, known as casas de bacalhau, serve a long list of variations, and some modern restaurants offer lighter, inventive versions. Pair the dish with a glass of vinho verde or a light red from the Douro or Dão.
If you are unsure what to order, ask for the bacalhau à Brás, which is the most approachable and widely loved version. If the menu lists dozens of cod dishes, trust the waiter's recommendation.
