Khao Soi: Chiang Mai's Signature Noodle Curry

Khao soi is a northern Thai dish of soft egg noodles in a rich, fragrant coconut-curry broth, topped with a nest of crispy fried noodles. It is typically made with chicken or beef, and each bowl comes with a plate of garnishes: pickled mustard greens, chopped shallots, lime wedges and a spoonful of chili oil. The combination of creamy, mildly spicy broth, soft and crunchy noodles and sharp, fresh garnishes makes it one of the most memorable bowls in Thailand.

The dish is thought to have roots in the Burmese and Chinese Muslim communities who passed through northern Thailand, and the influence shows in the curry's warm spices and in the halal versions served in some parts of the city. Today it is the regional signature and is eaten at lunchtime in small shop-front restaurants, markets and upscale cafés alike, usually for around the price of a couple of dollars.

Chiang Mai has hundreds of khao soi places, from tiny roadside stalls to well-known restaurants with queues at lunch. Many of the best are on the outskirts of the Old City and in the Santitham and Nimman areas, and most are open only for lunch and the early afternoon. A bowl usually costs under a couple of dollars at local shops and slightly more at tourist-oriented restaurants.