Kolonaki: Athens' Elegant Hillside of Boutiques, Cafes and Museums

Kolonaki is the most elegant neighborhood in Athens, a smart hillside district of designer boutiques, art galleries, stylish cafes and handsome neoclassical apartment buildings that sits just east of Syntagma Square and below Lycabettus Hill. It is where well-dressed Athenians come to shop, linger over a frappé and be seen, and it has the calm, polished feel of a European capital's best residential quarter. It is much quieter than the crowded streets around the Acropolis, and for visitors who want a break from the tourist centre, with excellent museums and restaurants, it is one of the best places to spend an afternoon.

The name means little column and refers to an ancient column that stood in the central square, Kolonaki Square, officially called Filikis Etaireias Square. In the 19th century, the area was mostly farmland on the edge of the new capital, but as Athens grew, wealthy families, diplomats and writers built houses here, and it became associated with the city's intellectual and political elite. Embassies, galleries and private clubs followed. Today, it remains one of the most expensive neighborhoods in the city, with international fashion brands on Voukourestiou and Tsakalof streets, and a social scene that still revolves around its cafes.

The heart of Kolonaki is its square, a pleasant open space lined with cafes where the neighborhood's residents sit for hours over coffee. The people-watching is excellent, and it is a classic Athens experience to claim a table, order a frappé or a cocktail and watch the world go by. Streets leading off the square, such as Skoufa, Tsakalof and Anagnostopoulou, are lined with boutiques selling fashion, jewelry, shoes and homeware, and the prices range from high to astronomical. Even if you are not shopping, the window displays and the elegant buildings make for a pleasant stroll.

Kolonaki is also home to some of the best museums in Athens. The Benaki Museum, just on the edge of the district, houses a large collection that spans Greek history from prehistory to the 20th century, with a lovely rooftop cafe. The Museum of Cycladic Art displays a world-famous collection of marble figurines from the Cycladic islands, whose simple, modern-looking forms inspired artists such as Picasso and Modigliani. The Byzantine and Christian Museum and the National Gallery are also nearby. Together, they make Kolonaki an ideal destination for a cultural day, away from the crowds of the ancient sites.

Mount Lycabettus is the district's great attraction. At 277 meters, it is the highest point in central Athens, and from the summit, you get a sweeping view over the whole city, the Acropolis and the sea, especially lovely at sunset. You can walk up a steep path through pine woods in about 20 to 30 minutes or take the funicular railway from Kolonaki, which runs through a tunnel inside the hill. At the top, there is a small white chapel, Saint George, a cafe and a restaurant, and the open-air theatre below hosts concerts in summer.

Food and drink in Kolonaki lean upscale. Cafe-bars on the square serve frappé, coffee and brunch, restaurants range from classic Greek to international and contemporary, and the area has several excellent fine-dining places. Lunch and dinner are more expensive than in Plaka or Psyrri, but the quality is high, and a plate of <a href="/guide/moussaka-athens-guide/">moussaka</a> or fresh fish with a view of the hill can be a pleasant way to end a day. Pastry shops sell traditional sweets, and for a snack, you can still find a good <a href="/guide/souvlaki-athens-guide/">souvlaki</a> on the side streets.

A few practical tips help. Kolonaki is one of the safest neighborhoods in Athens, quiet in the evening with a more residential feel, though the streets are steep, so bring comfortable shoes. Museums are generally closed on Mondays or one weekday, so check opening times in advance. If you want to climb Lycabettus on foot, go early or late to avoid the heat, and carry water. The nearby National Garden and the Presidential Mansion, with the guards in traditional uniform, are a short walk away, as is the Panathenaic Stadium, where the first modern Olympic Games were held in 1896.

Kolonaki suits couples, culture lovers, shoppers and travelers who want a calm, comfortable base with good restaurants. It is less suited to those on a tight budget or those who want to be in the middle of the nightlife. A good plan is to spend a morning in the museums, have lunch at a cafe on the square, wander the boutiques and head up Lycabettus for sunset. For lodging, see our guide to the <a href="/guide/top-10-hotels-in-athens/">top 10 hotels in Athens</a>.