Pastilla: Morocco's Sweet-and-Savory Pie
A guide to pastilla in Marrakech, from the paper-thin warqa pastry and the spiced pigeon or chicken filling to the sugar and cinnamon topping and where to taste one.
Pastilla: A Pie of Contrasts
Pastilla, also written bastilla or b'stilla, is one of the most celebrated dishes in Moroccan cuisine and a centerpiece of weddings and festive meals. It is a large round pie made from warqa, paper-thin sheets of pastry, filled with shredded meat cooked in onions, ginger, saffron and cinnamon, eggs and toasted almonds. The pie is baked or fried until golden and crisp, and then dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, so that each bite combines sweet, salty, crunchy and soft in a way that surprises first-time eaters.
The traditional filling is pigeon, which gives a rich, gamey flavor, but chicken is now more common in restaurants, and seafood versions with shrimp, fish and vermicelli are also popular, especially on the coast. The origins of the dish are linked to the Moorish culture of Andalusia, and it reached Morocco with refugees from Spain, becoming a specialty of Fez, though it is found everywhere. In Marrakech, you will find it served as a starter in many restaurants and riads, in a small individual size or as a large pie to share.
How to Order Pastilla
| Step | What to Do |
|---|---|
| 1 | Choose chicken for a milder taste, pigeon for tradition or seafood if you prefer a savory version |
| 2 | Order it as a starter and share it, since the pie is rich and filling |
| 3 | Eat it while warm, and expect the sugar and cinnamon on top, which is part of the dish |
| 4 | Pair it with mint tea or a fresh orange juice |
Where to Try Pastilla in Marrakech
Many mid-range and upscale restaurants and riads in the medina serve pastilla, and it is a good dish to order for a special dinner. Small restaurants sometimes make it only with advance notice, since it takes hours to prepare, so ask a day ahead. A portion in a restaurant usually costs $6 to $12 as a starter, and a whole pie for sharing can cost more. Pastry shops sell sweet versions with almonds and cream, and in Ramadan, pastilla is a popular dish for the evening meal.
Be ready for the sugar on top. It surprises many first-timers, but the mix of sweet and savory is the point. If you prefer less sweetness, ask for the topping to be light.
