Fish Amok: Cambodia's National Dish
A guide to fish amok in Siem Reap, from the kroeung spice paste and banana-leaf steaming to how to order it and where to find the best.
Fish Amok: A Fragrant Curry Steamed in Banana Leaf
Fish amok, called amok trey in Khmer, is Cambodia's national dish and the one every visitor should try. It is a mild, fragrant curry of freshwater fish cooked in coconut milk with kroeung, a paste of lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, kaffir lime leaves and garlic, then steamed in a banana leaf until it sets into a soft, mousse-like custard. It is more delicate than most Southeast Asian curries, with a gentle richness and a perfume of herbs rather than heat, and it is often served in a banana-leaf bowl, topped with a swirl of coconut cream and a few slices of red chili.
The dish is thought to date from the Angkorian period, and the name amok refers to the method of steaming in leaves. The fish traditionally comes from the Tonle Sap lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, which is just south of Siem Reap, and snakehead or catfish are commonly used. Versions with chicken, shrimp or tofu are also found. Amok should be soft and creamy, not watery, and the fish should hold together in pieces. It is served with steamed rice and sometimes a side of vegetables, and it makes a lovely, gentle introduction to Khmer cooking.
How to Order Fish Amok
| Step | What to Do |
|---|---|
| 1 | Ask for fish amok, or amok trey, and check whether it is served in a banana-leaf bowl or a coconut shell |
| 2 | Order it with a bowl of steamed rice, and add a vegetable stir-fry or a green mango salad as sides |
| 3 | Choose chicken or tofu amok if you do not eat fish, and ask for spice on the side if needed |
| 4 | Pair with iced lime juice, coconut water or a cold Angkor beer |
Where to Try Fish Amok in Siem Reap
Almost every Khmer restaurant in Siem Reap serves amok, from simple riverside places to upscale restaurants and cooking schools. The quality varies, so look for places that make it to order and serve it freshly steamed, rather than from a pre-made batch. A portion at a local restaurant costs about $4 to $7, and in a more upscale place $8 to $14. Many cooking classes include amok on the menu and let you make the kroeung paste yourself, which is a rewarding half-day activity. Pub Street has many restaurants serving amok, but the best are often on the quieter streets.
A good amok should be set like a soft custard, not a soup. If it arrives watery with chunks of fish swimming in sauce, it was boiled rather than steamed, so try another place.
