Gueliz: Marrakech's Modern Quarter of Cafes, Galleries and Gardens

Gueliz is the modern face of Marrakech, a district of wide, tree-lined boulevards, art deco buildings, boutiques, cafes and restaurants that sits just outside the medina walls. It was built in the early 20th century during the French protectorate, when the colonial authorities decided to build a new town next to the old one rather than modernize the medina, and the result is a very different place: orderly, open and relaxed, with the feel of a Mediterranean provincial city. For visitors, it offers a break from the intensity of the souks, with the cafes, galleries, fine restaurants and shops that locals themselves enjoy.

The name is thought to come from a French military post, the église, or church, on a nearby hill, which the locals pronounced as gueliz. The district grew rapidly in the 1920s and 1930s, with villas, administrative buildings, a railway station and the Church of the Holy Martyrs, one of the few Christian churches in Morocco. Today, Gueliz is the commercial and cultural center of the city, home to offices, banks, universities, malls and a growing community of artists. It is also the nightlife center, where bars and clubs serve alcohol, which is less available in the medina.

The main axis is Avenue Mohammed V, a broad boulevard that runs from the Koutoubia Mosque to the Place du 16 Novembre, lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. Rue de la Liberté, a pedestrian-friendly street, is the center of Gueliz life, with its many cafes and bakeries. The Marché Central, a covered market, sells fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and spices, and its streets are home to some of the best everyday restaurants. Pavement cafes line the avenues, and a coffee or a mint tea on a terrace is a good way to watch the neighborhood go by.

Gueliz is also the center of Marrakech's contemporary art scene. Numerous galleries, including Galerie 127, which focuses on photography, the David Bloch Gallery and the Matisse Art Gallery, show Moroccan and international artists. The nearby Théâtre Royal and the Cinéma Rif add to the cultural life. The Majorelle Garden and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum are at the northern edge of the district, within walking distance, and the Jardin Secret and the Museum of Photography are in the medina. A day in Gueliz can easily be combined with a morning at Majorelle.

Food in Gueliz is more varied than in the medina. You will find Moroccan restaurants serving <a href="/guide/tagine-marrakech-guide/">tagines</a> and <a href="/guide/couscous-marrakech-guide/">couscous</a>, as well as French bistros, Italian restaurants, sushi bars, cafes and bakeries. Coffee culture is strong, and many cafes serve breakfast and brunch with pastries and fresh orange juice. The area is also the place to find alcohol, with licensed restaurants, wine bars and nightclubs, particularly along Rue de la Liberté and in the streets around Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni.

Shopping in Gueliz is more like a European city. Avenue Mohammed V and the Carré Eden shopping mall have international brands, while smaller boutiques sell Moroccan fashion, homeware and design. Prices are fixed, so there is no haggling, which is a relief after the souks. Concept stores sell modern takes on traditional crafts, such as ceramics, textiles and leather goods, often of high quality. The Marché Central is good for picking up spices, dates and olives for gifts at fixed prices.

A few practical tips help. Gueliz is safe, with a relaxed atmosphere, but the usual precautions apply for petty crime, and taxis should use the meter. Fridays are quieter, as many businesses close for prayers. The district is less atmospheric than the medina and has fewer historical sights, so most travelers visit rather than staying there, though it has a good selection of hotels, and it suits those who want modern comforts, a calm base and good restaurants. In summer, the heat can be intense, so start early and rest in the afternoon.

Gueliz suits families, couples, café lovers and travelers who want a break from the medina. It is less suited to those looking for traditional Moroccan atmosphere or who want to stay close to Jemaa el-Fnaa. A good plan is to visit the Majorelle Garden first thing in the morning, have lunch in a cafe, browse the galleries and boutiques in the afternoon, and have a drink on a rooftop before heading back for dinner. For lodging, see our <a href="/guide/budget-hotels-in-marrakech/">budget hotels in Marrakech</a>.